Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Picture Tutorial: Drafting a Flared Skirt!!

Hi Everyone!!  It's been a while since I've shared a Picture Tutorial.  I've been very busy with the pattern fitting series but I thought I would show you how to draft a simple skirt using your own body measurements.  Now I know what your thinking!!  There are TONS of skirt tutorials out there, so you're saying "WHAT!!  Another one??"  Yes another one!!  There are great ones out there, but mine is just a little bit different.  I will teach you to draft this skirt using your own hip measurement.  I don't like full skirts on my body.  Anything that adds extra around my midsection is just not a good look on me.  I like to wear slim skirts but with style.  They are the most flattering for my taste.  If you're like me and like a slimmer flared skirt, then this is the skirt tutorial for YOU!!  This skirt has 4 panels or gores.  It's designed for a striped stretch knit, however you could use any knit.  I've prepared a chart for you with the formula for this skirt.  Just locate your hip measurement and find the corresponding measurement number in the next column. The only other measurement you will need is your skirt length plus 1 1/4".  It can be made in any length from Mini to Maxi!!  So here we go with the tutorial!!
 
I'll be using the formula for a 38" hip.  The number that correlates with that hip measurement is 9 1/2".  The skirt length measurement I chose is 22 1/4"(21" length + 1 1/4" for allowances).  Make a line 9 1/2" wide.  This is your waistline.  Now make a perpendicular line whatever length you'd like your skirt plus 1 1/4".  The 1 1/4" will be for 3/4" seam at the waistline and 1/2" hem at the bottom.  Complete the lines across the bottom and up the other side by making a rectangle.  Add 3/8" to each long side for seam allowance.  Cut out the rectangle.  This is the only pattern piece you will need for this skirt.

Fold your skirt pattern in half long ways.

Now fold it in half again but only to the seam line.

Fold again one last time to the seam line.

Open pattern flat and draw lines on the 7 fold lines.  Now slash these lines to the waistline seam line and spread open to create a flair. 

You can open each section as much as you wish to make a larger flair, however I spread my pattern 2" each.  This gave me just the right flare for my taste. 


Time to cut out the striped knit fabric.   I folded my fabric in the usual manner, matching my stripes as I folded across the fabric wrong side together.   Then laid out my pattern pieces.

To achieve the chevron I cut the 2 skirt pieces (on a doubled layer of fabric, 4 total pieces) on the cross grain.  My fabric was a somewhat stable knit so I didn't worry about cutting it on the cross grain.

Sew all four skirt sections/gores together.  Be careful to match the stripes on all the seams while stitching.  SEWING TIP:  Using a smaller uneven stripe like mine, was easier to hide any stripes not matched perfectly at the seam lines.

Measure your waistline.  Now subtract 2-4 depending how tight you'd like your waistline elastic to be.  Cut a piece of 3/4" elastic to desired length.  SEWING TIP:  Zigzag elastic together onto a small piece of ribbon to make elastic into circle by joining the cut ends.  Fold ribbon over to enclose raw edges of the elastic.  I used bright pink ribbon so you could clearly see my method.

Fold your elastic circle in half and half again marking it into quarters.  Match each quarter with a seam on your skirt.  Stretch elastic while zigzag or overlocking it on to your skirt.  Fold over elastic and stitch in the ditch in each seam line.
 
Turn your hem over a 1/2" and stitch down.  You can also hand sew it if you'd like just as I did.  SEWING TIP:  EASEING IN A FLARED SKIRT HEMLINE When preparing the hem, I overlock at the hemline edge and tighten my tension and lengthen my stitch just a little bit to pull the bottom in to accommodate the skirt flair.  This way when I turn over the hem, it fits right in around the curve of the hemline.  This also works with just a straight stitch as well.

There you have it!!  A "slim" flared skirt with a Surprise!  The Surprise being the hottest thing going on in fashion right now,  "The Chevron".



I LOVE the way this skirt turned out and plan to make a Maxi length too!!  The best part is, after I took the time to draft the pattern, the skirt only took me a short time to make!  It's a win, win situation again my friends!!  I hope you like my skirt and will make one for yourself!  Post pictures on my Facebook Wall if you do.  I'd love to see what you all do with my first Skirt Picture Tutorial!

Thanks so much for your continued support by sending emails, messages, commenting, pinning and repining and sharing with your Sewing Groups!!  Have a Happy Creative Day!! 

6 comments:

  1. Nice skirt. I think I can do this, Thx.

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  2. This is one tutorial I will use as it also my favorite style of skirt. Thanks for the tutorial.

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    1. Hi Virginia! I'd love to see your version from my tutorial! Please post a pic on my Facebook Wall.

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  3. Love this! Why is it the obvious eludes me lol. I never thought to fold the pattern to get the cut lines for slash and spread. Thanks so much, Roxanne!

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    1. You're Welcome Kat! It's so much easier than fiddling with math isn't it?? Glad you found it helpful!

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